Paradise

Paradise is a small Peruvian pueblo named Urbulu. Tucked into a sugar cane valley and half an hour from Tuman (accent on the "man"), this pueblo has only 70 people. We left home in the Tico taxi of Arturo Anton Arguesa, a friend of the people we would visit. Our young friend, Liseth, had arranged for the taxi and the visit with her aunt. One and one half hour later, after driving through endless sugar cane fields with backdrops of the Andes' foothills, we arrived. During the drive we passed Pomalca and drove through Tuman. These are now towns, but they were once plantations and then collectives. Tuman is a lovely town with garden parks, waterways, old trees, and some of the older plantation houses. The sugar factory is huge and was belching out fumes that smelled of the first stage of sugar making (almost like molasses). After Tuman we hit roads that were more ruts than roads. Every so often there were large pumps gushing clear water from underground wells into cement channels that ran everywhere. Sugar cane to the left, sugar cane to the right; burning fields of cane and some fairly new growth of cane; and always those mountains.

With a small turn onto a narrow dirt road we reached Urbulu. One floor adobe homes with flowers growing in front and a variety of fruit trees on the other side of the road. Cows munched, burros munched, and dogs looking to munch went by. Then the road widened and opened onto a grove of coconut trees to the left, sugar cane and mountains to the right and a broad yard with an adobe house ahead. The property was fenced in typically Peruvian country style: tall sticks woven together, and shorter cane pieces with burnt stains creating a pattern of light and dark. Behind these were the enclosures for burros, sheep and various poultry. As we got out of the taxi I noticed that the ground was soft, almost spongy. Everywhere we went that day the ground was the same; unlike the cement-like soil where we live. 

After introductions, some small talk, and a walk around the neighborhood to look at the birds and plants, we sat down to "almuerzo" or afternoon dinner. The plates were heaped full with white beans, rice and goat. I knew I could never eat all on my plate. Additionally, there were two types of seviche, Peruvian corn called "choclo," a bowl of hot sauce, and plenty of camotes. The aunt put on some exceptional Andean music and Miguel poured the wine we had brought. The two children there at the time (Cesar 11 and Guadalupe 7) ate at a separate table. Later a younger son arrived (Alex 4). The children were happy, well-behaved, and engaging. The food was truly delicious. Arturo taught us a slow Andean dance to some new music that was played and then we danced.

After a short rest to digest...off to the river. The river was high, about 25 feet wide, and the current was swifter than I expected. It has been raining (sometimes torrentially) in the mountains and the river carried silt to the valley. As I stood knee deep in water of an exquisite coolness, I looked up. There, across some miles were two gorgeous mountain peaks framed by palms in the foreground. A large white bird flew by making the picture even more startling. Arturo took some pictures (unfortunately without the bird) which I will post later. 

Yes, it was paradise and the day went by all too quickly. I'm not sure if the mythical Adam and Eve had a paradise like this; but I hope they didn't have the one diabolical intrusion: mosquitoes!

What's with the music and video gadgets?

There are so many songs from the 78 rpm era that are really fine or funny. Many people have never heard them. These songs are not copyrighted and can be put on blogs, websites, etc. There are also some interesting short animated videos that are "open source."

At the bottom of this page is a musical animation. Wayne Lytle, the originator, uses software to analyze the music and drive the instruments in the animation. His website is http://www.animusic.com. A DVD of all seven of the pieces of animated music has been released commercially. Both the video and the 78rpm songs can be found at http://www.archive.org

The songs in the musical gadgets to the right were chosen mainly for their great blues; except for "Yes, we have no bananas," and "Hard Times." 'No bananas' is a silly song I remember from my childhood. The next song opens with several seconds of a sermon and then launches into the congregation singing the song. I wanted to put this one on because it reminds of my Baptist musical roots and the times I skipped Sunday School to listen to music at black storefront churches in my neighborhood. The others are fabulous renditions of blues songs.

What do Ry Cooder, Taj Mahal, Bob Weir, Jorma Kaukonen, Dave Von Ronk, David Bromberg, have in common? They all were taught by Blind Reverend Gary Davis. Bob Dylan, Jerry Garcia & the Grateful Dead, and Jefferson Airplane were all influenced by Davis. To read a bio of Davis (a Baptist preacher as well) go to http://www.gale.cengage.com/free_resources/bhm/bio/davis_g.htm Enjoy the music!

RECIPE: CURRIED GOAT WITH PUMPKIN

This was so good we stuffed ourselves. In Peru goat is a popular meat and is usually cooked in a stew. In some supermarkets, here, you can find unbelievably fresh goat meat. The goat we used for this was sweet and tender. It won't look like a pretty picture in a cookbook when you are finished, but that is because the veggies are meant to be well cooked to add flavor to the juice.

For many years I used only the Madras curry powder that came in that lovely decorated tin. I asked my sister to send me some to Peru, but she could not find it. Instead she sent "SWAD" Madras curry from Rajafoods. I am converted! It has just the right amount of spice to make it tasty without too much fire.

I used my own homegrown "zapallo loche" in this recipe. If you can get it, cook some with the skin on to increase the flavor of the juice. Zapallo loche is similar to loche but much less expensive (see my photo of loche in this blog). Otherwise, buttercup squash would be the best replacement.

CURRIED GOAT WITH PUMPKIN/SQUASH (this recipe is done with colors which may not reproduce in black print)

Ingredients:
2 1/2 to 3 pounds (1 kilo plus) young goat (ribs are really tender) cut into serving pieces
2-4 tablespoons of virgin olive oil (total for all the sauteing)
4 cloves of garlic chopped roughly
1 slice of fresh ginger minced (about 3/4" thick)
2-3 medium tomatoes (ripe!) cut into medium to small pieces (skin if desired)
2 or more tablespoons of butter
1 medium white onion cut into small crescents
2-4 tablespoons of curry powder (more depending on strength and preference)
2-3 small to medium white potatoes in good sized chunks
1-2 medium orange camotes in chunks (optional)
1 green, semi-hard skinned squash/pumpkin in chunks
1/2 red bell pepper in chunks
1 amarillo pepper with seeds removed & in chunks (if available, this is a long, yellow, slightly spicy pepper)
2 cups of chicken broth (preferably homemade)
Water* to bring the liquid line to about 1/2" to 1" below the meat and veggies
Salt and pepper to taste

*Water -- if you have extra chicken broth, add that instead. It will make the stew much richer.

1. Sear the goat well in heated olive oil in a heavy iron pot (lg enough to hold all of the above) over fairly high flame. Remove to a bowl. (If there is burnt oil, clean the pot with a paper towel.)
   
2. Lower the flame a bit and saute the garlic and ginger in olive oil (add more if needed) for 1 minute.
3. Melt the butter in the pot & add the onion. Saute until golden.
4. Add the tomatoes and cook (stirring a bit) until they soften somewhat.
5. Add the curry powder and stir for 1-2 minutes until incorporated.
6. Throw in the rest of the vegetables and stir for a minute or so until they are coated nicely with the curry mix.
7. Add the chicken broth and return the goat (with juices that have accumulated).
8. Add water to about 1/2" to 1" below all. Too much water will weaken the flavor; too little will make the juice too thick.
9. Bring to a boil and then lower the flame and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes.
10. Test the meat with a fork. If not tender, cook until it is (adding more water if necessary). If tender, and all veggies done; turn off, serve with rice, and enjoy!
    

PRESIDENT OBAMA

Can it be done? Can he do it? We have waited so long for a change; for a new day. After all the years of reactionary government that served a small percentage of the people and/or was self-serving, it is time for the development of a US government and a US community dedicated to serving all fairly. Let's help it happen by giving a strong voice to our hopes. Go to the website http://www.change.gov/and let Obama know your vision, your ideas, your hopes...loud and clear!

In Memoriam

One of the first posts I added to my blog was about Tia Rosa and making chicha. Sadly for all of us who have known this wonderful woman, she died yesterday evening to much wailing by those who loved her. Besides making chicha as a business, Tia Rosa was a major financial support for many people. Her table was always filled with food for others. She helped raise other people's children when they had difficulties. Her parties were filled with happy, dancing, chicha-drinking folks. We will all miss her.

SOME THOUGHTS ON THE "here we go all over again" FINANCIAL CRISIS:

It amazes me that people are surprised. When you remove regulations like the Glass-Steagall Act (Clinton and Rubin did this) so that banks can merge different types of banking [savings, loans, commercial operations & credit, and investments (stocks, bonds, etc.) all in one bank] and become the mega monsters they are now; it means that people across the board are hurt by the ensuing financial crisis. Remember, business cycles are real. What goes up comes down again. Of course, much of this started back in Reagan's time when the Republicans were screaming about "big government" and asking for deregulation. They got it. Then we had the "Savings & Loan fiasco" (Bush family involvement) followed by more deregulation. Next came the Hedge Fund nightmare that almost brought several countries to their knees. Derivatives once again were part of the problem and the geniuses who supposedly devised a foolproof method had to hide their Nobel prizes. Now the most recent crisis which, as yet, has no cute moniker.

I remember how back in '98 workers in my company who had hoped to retire could not. Their 401Ks were invested in stock and that crisis took a big bite. Now 401Ks will be hurt again. And Bush wanted to privatize social security? That would have been the final legal bullet in the heart of average people in the US. What I want to know is why people continue to believe that we have a government of, for, and by the people? We do not. We have a government run by extremely rich people who are beholden to even richer and more powerful institutions in order to keep their millions and billions growing. So who do our politicians listen to? Us? Not a chance unless you take to the streets. Then they might dole out a crumb or two.

How are they able to bailout $700 billion to these institutions when they can't provide decent health care to many Americans? How can they do this when so many children are living in poverty? How can they do this when so many are out of work? How can they do this when we have such an enormous debt? They can and they do because it benefits them.

If you want a tag for this crisis, it could be called "chicanery all over again." Chicanery is a word that is seldom used. Perhaps that's because the economic belief system today has chicanery as its root meaning. For those who want to know, "chicanery" is defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as: "legal trickery, pettifogging [being a "rascally attorney"]; the use of subterfuge and trickery in debate or action; quibbling, sophistry, trickery." Even though it is used to characterize low level attorneys who put together unnecessary cases through trickery, it could be extended to anyone (and the government is filled with attorneys) who uses legal means to pull the wool over peoples' eyes.

Let's start with deregulation. The given reasoning behind deregulation is that it hampers business from growing. Example: Regulations about contaminating the air and earth cause business to change the way they do business and this costs them money (out of their excessive profits). Meaning, if they are polluting the air and people develop lung cancer they don't want to help. So, legally, the regulations are changed to benefit business growth. That growth results in "too big to fail."

Next, derivatives. Most people have absolutely no understanding about derivatives, but neither do the people who use them (except to know they gain outrageous profits from the bubble that occurs). They are legal despite almost twenty years of problems. I'm not going to try to explain them either. Just know that they are "chicanery."

And what about "free markets"? Free markets supposedly mean that there is no government interference in the operation of markets. The result of this verbal chicanery is that the corporations of more developed countries can freely and legally enter the underdeveloped markets in Latin America, Africa, etc. And the result of that is the siphoning of funds from those countries back to the developed ones. Yes, you get cheaper prices from the sweating of labor in those countries, and yes there is development in those countries for the richest, but no, the wealth does not "trickle down" (another example of Reagan's verbal chicanery). If you want to know why, read "Confessions of an Economic Hit Man" by John Perkins.

Big government? The bailout is a prime example of big government. The bailout gives the lie to "free markets." The bailout is prime, triple A, chicanery! The government (i.e., the rich) tries to convince us that they must do this in order to save us. The result: those who created the mess in the first place are rewarded for trickery and outright criminality, while we will see another generation of average folks sacrificed. In real terms your money over the past 20 years or so has been decreasing in value. Now it will decrease even more. And the younger generation will face an uphill climb much more severe than it has been. All from economic chicanery used to benefit those at the top.

So what's happened from all of this deregulation and crisis? Well, for one thing, already big corporations are gobbling up failing ones and becoming even bigger. The government that doesn't want to be "big" is now taking on the job of controlling the market. Don't expect this to stop. It won't unless we the people take back our government. What kind of government do you want? What kind of economic system do you want?

To anonymous re loche

Thanks for commenting and growing the zapallo.

I also have a few zapallo vines growing and some small fruit. It is the bottom of winter here, but the weather is between 78 to 90 F. As soon as the vines have all borne some fruit I will cut and plant 4 to 5 vines. If successful, they should grow loche by mid to late summer. All of this is experimental.

The zapallo seeds (called zapallo loche) will give you enormous vines, leaves and pumpkins, but not loche.

The pumpkins can grow into your fall. They could be enormous, so at this point just harvest one to see if it is ready. Take some cuttings from your zapallo vine and plant them. Since I am in a non-frost zone it is easy to do that, but if winter is coming to you the vines might not grow. Perhaps you could try putting them in a large pot indoors next to a sunny window. The pumpkin itself is wonderful for stews and it cooks quickly. The loche, purportedly, only grows from the vine cuttings. Good luck with both. Please let me know your results. Jan

Writing a novel

When I returned from NYC in late July, I began writing a novel. I just woke up one morning with a story in my mind and began. That is the reason this blog has not been updated in a while. Six months later and too many hours of research to assess, I am finally ready to piece together the bits I have written. This first part will take my main character from his home in a village in southwestern Russia, to Moscow in the second half of the 1800s, and on to Sakhalin Island in the Russian Far East. Chekhov wrote a detailed account of this penal colony when he visited it in 1890. Without Chekhov's book I would not have been able to write this portion. The character escapes from Sakhalin and makes it to Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan and then on to Vladivostok on the mainland of the Russian Far East.

Now the hard part begins. Writing so that the story flows and the words capture what I want to tell is not, I have found, such an easy task. But I begin...

Update on Loche

Earlier I posted a piece about loche, but had no photo and only incomplete information. Above is a picture of a loche I purchased in Mercado Modelo in Chiclayo for 3 soles. It is 8 inches high. I also found an organization that is dedicated to research on and the promotion of the loche. However, this was not my finding, but the work of a woman whose blog is dedicated to food. After writing to her, she did some searching and found this organization at http://www.lamolina.edu.pe/hortalizas/loche%20Cucurbitaceae%202006%20ppt.pdf . They have pictures and information in both Spanish and English. Her blog is a wonderful compendium of information on food and has some delicious recipes www.worldonaplate.org .

My father-in-law, who has some farm land about 15 minutes (by car) from our house, asked local farmers about growing the loche. Most agreed that it had to be grown from cuttings, but one mentioned that the seed of the larger loche zapallo could be planted; a cutting taken from its vine could be planted, and the smaller loche would grow. We are going to try this.

If I were 25 to 30 years younger I would seriously consider growing loche for export. The flavor is superior to most types of pumpkin or squash. For now, we are experimenting with inventing recipes using the loche: a truly Peruvian vegetable.

A reply to Skyehigh

Thanks for the link to Lapsang Souchong Zhivago. As soon as I have finished my current package, I will try this. This was an amazing coincidence also. Reading the text for the naming of the tea I was surprised to find Vladivostok mentioned. I am currently in the process of writing a novel in which this amazing place figures. It is not your everyday place, so coming across it this way was a pleasant coincidence for me.

Music, music. music

The beat is great, insistent and infectious; the poetry of language, of sound, amuses and mystifies; the layers of sound splash out at you or interweave and almost disappear in the drive of the music. It is Reggae. It is Hip-Hop. It is Punk. Sometimes it is Funk. At times it comes close to the grittiest Rap. This is Reggaeton.

I love it much more than I do not like most Rap. Seldom does Rap have a sense of humor; a sense of laughing at itself. Rap needs to be too angry. Reggaeton delights in itself. Sometimes the Reggae seems far away, but the Hip-Hop is always right there. The music uses many languages just the way it plays with sound. Even though I can’t understand much of the Spanish, neither can my Spanish speaking husband. But that’s not necessary. The riot of sound runs away with the language.

Okay, so I’m speaking of the best of Reggaeton. Some of it is just repetitive and boring. Even Daddy Yankee puts out songs that don’t live up to his best. But when he is good, he is very, very good. The repetitions are there, but they vary in a way that keeps them from being boring. The best reference I can make is to a musical tapestry of instrument and voice.

So why do so few people I know like it? I’m guessing that in general many “Americans” are not familiar with Latin music and its evolution of sound. I once was the same. Little by little this body of music became more familiar through listening, going to parties with Latino friends, visiting the Dominican Republic, residing in Manhattan, and living with my Peruvian husband.

Armed with a decent knowledge of this music (from Fado to Forro; from the Cha-Cha to Son; from Cumbia to Bacchata; from Chicha’s Culebritica to Huaynos; from Salsa to Merengue; from Flamenco tango to Samba and on) and with a good background in Classical, Folk, Rock, Country, and world music, I moved to Peru. Here I was hoping to hear some of the great musicians I had heard on albums and Cds. Though Lisandro Mesa is originally Columbian he has adopted Peru and I hoped to see him in a live show. He used to give concerts in our town, but (wouldn’t you know) he now tours the United States. I hear “live” music here almost every weekend, but it is too loud and too repetitive. Several months ago I found a radio station that was playing this “new” music, Reggaeton. “Dame la Gasolina” by Daddy Yankee was popular and played often. I ran out and bought the Cd.

Slowly I am learning the different songs and have seen some videos (some raunchier than necessary), but the radio does not announce the names of the performers. This is a disservice to the musicians. How does one learn which Cds to buy? This must keep sales down or confined to a small handful of kids who buy pirate Cds and learn by elimination.

A message to Daddy Yankee: Hey DY, please have someone change the policy of radio stations in Chiclayo, Peru. And while I’m at it, please continue to create those wonderful songs that are so complex and intriguing. Oh, yeah, a little less Funk, please.

Wonderful Vacation in Manhattan

Ah, Manhattan, NYC! I thought I wouldn't like it anymore since my life has changed so dramatically. I was wrong: breakfast on Broadway watching my favorite people (all colors, all nationalities, all religions, all styles, and even the homeless community meeting each other on benches); Central Park and Summerstage concerts; the Hudson River, Riverside Park and the Rotunda; the market in Union Square, the mishmash of 14th Street, subway musicians, and the subway rides in summer; neighborhoods I've known and loved; restaurants unlike any others and the availability of almost anything you might want. On my 2nd day at around 7 pm I stopped on the sidewalk and breathed deeply because the smell of Manhattan on a summer evening is something special. Of course, there have been changes since 2004, but Manhattan is always changing; some good, some bad.

One of the changes that I did not like in Manhattan (and in Connecticut where I stayed for a few days) was the architecture. When I first saw the hodgepodge of architectural styles called postmodern in the 90s I disliked what I saw, but what was mildly disturbing then has become frightening in the most recent architecture. It appears that corporations have a real taste for a mix of blockhouse, penitentiary, and grandiosity. Are they walling in, walling out, or both? On a day of 95 degrees there is a chill in the area of these buildings.

The best part of the vacation was dining, partying, and talking with my son and friends. Dan now lives on the Mianus River. Waking up in his room was a bit of Tarzan and Jane. With glass on three sides the leaves of trees surrounded the room, sun rays passing through. Egrets flew by and kayak rowers made their way up river. The party that weekend was a wonderful combination of my friends, his friends, our friends, new friends and good food. Back in Manhattan the team from FCH&S (Scott, Brian, Jeff, Dillion and Wasan) took me to lunch at the Olive Garden. The only photos I have of my trip are those that Scott took (see above & among photos). At the office I spent hours reconnecting with other workers. Their warm welcome was overwhelming. My good friend Monika S. had recovered from a car accident and we had a wonderful dinner together at City Lobster. So good to be with her and enjoy her wry humor. Then I spent a day in the park listening to music with Dan and friends (Andy, Anisa, Chris and Noel). Andy and I were celebrating our birthdays. I was completely taken by the lush green of the park after living in tan and sandy Peru for 2 1/2 years.

I stayed in a hotel that I recommend if you like the upper westside and do not care how small and non-luxury your hotel room is: Riverside Tower Hotel. Very affordable and close to restaurants, stores and the subway. I had accepted the generous offer of friend and former neighbor Kyle to stay in her apartment while she was in Spain and moved uptown. Her top floor apartment has breathtaking views of the Hudson and downtown Manhattan. There I met Christophe and his friends Aurelie and Faycal from Paris and Brigitte (now living in the US). These were lovely and intelligent people who made my stay even more pleasurable. Christophe introduced me to Mariage Freres' Lapsang Souchong tea. No tea has ever tasted this good. My friend Monika R. came up for dinner and brought the best bottle of wine I have ever had. My sister and brother-in-law took me to dinner at a terrific Thai place and friend Julie made me a great dinner at her place. Friend Jon and I walked through Riverside Park until it started to rain. I have forgotten to say how special it was to be in the rain in NYC. Our area of Peru gets 1/4 inch of rain a year and I was feeling deprived. Jon also showed me some of his new purchases of excellent antiquarian books.

On the way back I spent hours at the airport with newly met friend, Esther (she was going to Argentina) and we now keep in touch by email. When not with friends, I spent hours and hours shopping for things you cannot get in Peru. The Customs searcher in Peru laughed when his x-ray showed a stainless steel dish rack and drainer in one suitcase. So now I am back and if I could afford it I would spend one month a year in Manhattan. Thank you to everyone who made my trip an exciting experience to remember for many years.

Earthquakes, politics, and NYC

El Temblor: Though we are far north of the quake zone, friends and family sent messages hoping we were okay. This assured us that we have not been forgotten though we are far away. This, too, is a quake zone, but there has not been a large one since 1970. Even that was not too bad by the standards of the August 15th quake in Pisco, Ica, Chincha, etc. The pictures on TV and in the papers have shown some of the damage, but no one thought to photograph from the air. That would give a better idea of the incredible destruction and show what must be miles of flattened buildings. The death toll was not as large as some other quakes in Peru, but over 500 is many too many. It is the living, however, who are suffering from thirst, hunger, record cold, and the unbearable loss of family, friends, homes, and livelihood. It is now 12 days later and though some help has arrived, there is still deprivation. This brings us to

Politics: It seems that President Garcia either has been poorly informed or is so concerned with image before truth and caring that he (to our sensibility) downplayed the tragedy and answered looting (people needing food and blankets?) with troops. Did the troops get there before the aid? Obviously it was necessary to consider that real criminals (misnamed "delinquents" here) would take advantage of disaster, but no one seemed to distinguish between people needing goods and criminals. Why weren't the troops and/or police sent with a double mission of help and protection. Neighbors were shown at barricades forming protective groups wielding sticks and pipes to keep the criminals out of their neighborhoods. Troops & police should have been divided into those who worked with rescuers, those who protected neighborhoods, and those who made sure supplies arriving were safe from hijackers and bandits. Instead, Alan Garcia seemed more concerned with guarding businesses (many of which were destroyed anyway) than guarding civilians and getting aid to them. I can say this today as I just received a called from immigration to say that I now have

Peruvian Citizenship: It's been a rough road to this place, but now the bureaucratic agony is ended and I am a dual citizen; US and Peru. Now I can (no, must) vote in Peru. This is an easy procedure, but voting in the US federal elections is next to impossible. The procedure seems to be constructed to keep external citizens from voting at all. Since our US passports must be renewed in October we will see if the American Embassy can show us a simple way. The next step for me in Peru is to get my DNI, or national identity card, and then a Peruvian passport. Then I can return to Peru easily and use my US passport to go to NYC.

MAKING CHICHA BEER THE OLD WAY

Must fix these pictures. Still trying to figure it out.







Photos: 1) Tia Rosa's kitchen with chicha room in back at right, 2) chicha oven, 3) two stages of fermentation, 4) three stages of fermentation, 5) bottles ready to be filled, 6) workers buy & drink chicha at Tia Rosa's, 6) Kika says "delicious!"

CHICHA DE JORA (chicha from corn flour)

It is possible that chicha has been made in Perú since before the Incas. This post describes chicha as it has been made in Monsefú, Perú for at least 75 years. The chicha maker in the picture is Rosa Hemerajinda Chafloque Pisfil. “Tia Rosa” celebrated her 87^th birthday on January 13, 2007 (the picture was taken in 1986). She stopped making chicha about 8 years ago. Her chicha was very different from today’s chicha which is made in aluminum or stainless steel vats, uses sugar rather than molasses, and is bottled in plastic. Tia Rosa’s chicha was cooked in an oven of ceramic vats about 3 feet tall by 2 ½ feet wide at the top. The vats were tapered. The quantity made was enough for over 100 bottles.

Ingredients: corn flour (made from alazan corn, a reddish medium kernel corn, which was soaked in well water until it germinated, dried in the sun {this took days}, brought to the mill to be ground when thoroughly dry, and ground to a medium coarse grind), well water, and molasses from sugar cane.

Preparation: The germination and drying of the corn takes two to three days depending on the heat of the sun. In the ceramic vats 50 kilos of ground corn and about 8 gallons of water were added. This was brought to a boil over a wood fire inside the oven (see photo of oven). It was left to boil for 12 hours. Every time the boiling made foam, it had to be stirred with a wooden ladle. This was about every half hour. After 12 hours, it was left to sit without heat until it no longer showed any signs of boiling.

Next it was strained with a coarse cloth; shaking and then squeezing the cloth with one’s hands. The residue left in this cloth was squeezed through the hands until the dry residue was captured. This “afrecho” was given to the animals (pigs, chickens, ducks, etc.). The liquid from the hands was caught in a pot, sweetened with sugar, and given as a warm drink to children. Though the children were given this “chufla” for nutrition, adults liked it too. After this stage of straining the liquid it was left to cool for about 2 days. Then it is strained again with a finer cloth. The residue of this is called “ñuto.” This watery residue is heated, sweetened, and drunk. Sometimes cinnamon and apples are added.

Then the finely strained liquid in the vat was transferred to barrels (see photo) or taller ceramic vats and sweetened with about 4 gallons of molasses. This was left to rest in order that fermentation would begin. This took about 1-2 days. Then it was tasted for sweetness. More molasses was added if needed and it was left for a few hours to further ferment. When ready, it was poured into dark green or brown (glass) beer bottles and corked (see photo). The cork was tied with string so that the gass produced would not pop the cork. The bottles were left for two days. Both the taste and the potency could vary from cooking to cooking. If the bottles were left for more than 2 days its potency was increased. Sometimes bottles were buried in the ground for a month to produce a type of corn brandy. The sediment that formed at the bottom of the bottles was saved to use as a vinegar. The better the filtration, the less the sediment.

Chicha was generally drunk in small, dried halves of gourds which had decorations of leaves, flowers, and (sometimes) sayings burnt into the surface. Unfortunately, this delicious brew is no longer being made in this way.

LOCHE: AN UNUSUAL VEGETABLE FROM PERU

Loche is a word which brings up an extraordinary group of pictures in Google Image, but not the loche from Peru. There is one photo of a giant zappallo (pumpkin) which is listed as a loche, but it is not.

As far as I have been able to discover, the loche does not exist outside Peru. The loche is a delicious winter squash indigenous to northern Peru and is used mainly in stews. It cooks quickly, but retains its firmness well. The color of the pulp is a lovely orange and the taste is sweet, but not cloying. We have yet to try making a pie from it, but it should be excellent for this.

Legend has it that loche will only germinate if women plant it. Rather than plant the seeds (there usually are none & any found seem to be sterile), a piece of the vine is planted. I believe this makes it somewhat unusual for squash.

The squash, itself, is dark green with some bluish tints, has irregular and bumpy ribbing running from the stem to the bottom. The skin is tough like an acorn squash. It generally is about 8 to 9 inches long and 4 to 5 inches at its widest.

If anyone has a picture of the squash or its vine, or more information about it, please contact me. Thanks. Meanwhile I will try to remember to take a picture of it and upload it.

START WITH GOOD FOOD

Jan's recipe for shark (called toyo or toyito in Spanish):

TOYO BOYO

· Saute (until garlic is golden) a sofrito of minced garlic (2-3 cloves or more), minced onion (1/2 onion), 2 tsps. chopped cilantro (leaves only) and if you can get it, 1/2 tsp. fresh curcuma* (or turmeric, called palillo in Peru) shredded.

· Add about 2 cups of fish stock & bring to a boil.

· Throw in raw peas (optional) and cubed raw potatoes and cook 10-15 minutes.

· Add 2 whole cobs of corn broken in half, the rest of the whole stick of curcuma/turmeric shredded. Powdered turmeric, if using instead (See * below).

· Add about 2 pounds (1 kilo) of shark cut into 2" cubes and cook about 10 minutes.

· Sprinkle with more chopped cilantro, salt & pepper, and serve in soup bowls with rice.

· Optional: this can be made spicy with the addition of some fresh hot red pepper (cuidado!) when adding the corn (this also makes the corn a whole food).

*Curcuma/turmeric is also available as a powder. This is the ingredient that gives curry its color and is purportedly very good for your memory. If using it fresh, scrape off the thin skin. If using the powder, mix it with a bit of oil to make a paste and add after the sautéing. If you have ulcers, gall bladder problems, are pregnant or nursing, or taking a blood thinner, consult your doctor. This amount is probably too small to harm, but to learn more about its properties and whether you should use it go to: http://www.drugdigest.org/DD/DVH/HerbsWho/0,3923,4046%7CCurcuma,00.html

BLOG REDUX or BLOG-BLOG

First words, afterwards. I'm starting a new blog after experiencing problems with another. As usual, corporate changes have turned something easy and free into a complicated activity that costs. It was either pay up or turn off the photos. Not for me. So I've switched to Google and will begin blogging again after I copy some of my information and entries to "Apostiori." The title reflects my agreement with the belief that knowing follows experience. This does not mean a cancellation of imagination; imagination feeds something other than knowledge. It feeds creation. So this blog will present entries that come from experience as well as imagination. I hope I can live up to this "grand" statement. You will be the judge.