Paradise

Paradise is a small Peruvian pueblo named Urbulu. Tucked into a sugar cane valley and half an hour from Tuman (accent on the "man"), this pueblo has only 70 people. We left home in the Tico taxi of Arturo Anton Arguesa, a friend of the people we would visit. Our young friend, Liseth, had arranged for the taxi and the visit with her aunt. One and one half hour later, after driving through endless sugar cane fields with backdrops of the Andes' foothills, we arrived. During the drive we passed Pomalca and drove through Tuman. These are now towns, but they were once plantations and then collectives. Tuman is a lovely town with garden parks, waterways, old trees, and some of the older plantation houses. The sugar factory is huge and was belching out fumes that smelled of the first stage of sugar making (almost like molasses). After Tuman we hit roads that were more ruts than roads. Every so often there were large pumps gushing clear water from underground wells into cement channels that ran everywhere. Sugar cane to the left, sugar cane to the right; burning fields of cane and some fairly new growth of cane; and always those mountains.

With a small turn onto a narrow dirt road we reached Urbulu. One floor adobe homes with flowers growing in front and a variety of fruit trees on the other side of the road. Cows munched, burros munched, and dogs looking to munch went by. Then the road widened and opened onto a grove of coconut trees to the left, sugar cane and mountains to the right and a broad yard with an adobe house ahead. The property was fenced in typically Peruvian country style: tall sticks woven together, and shorter cane pieces with burnt stains creating a pattern of light and dark. Behind these were the enclosures for burros, sheep and various poultry. As we got out of the taxi I noticed that the ground was soft, almost spongy. Everywhere we went that day the ground was the same; unlike the cement-like soil where we live. 

After introductions, some small talk, and a walk around the neighborhood to look at the birds and plants, we sat down to "almuerzo" or afternoon dinner. The plates were heaped full with white beans, rice and goat. I knew I could never eat all on my plate. Additionally, there were two types of seviche, Peruvian corn called "choclo," a bowl of hot sauce, and plenty of camotes. The aunt put on some exceptional Andean music and Miguel poured the wine we had brought. The two children there at the time (Cesar 11 and Guadalupe 7) ate at a separate table. Later a younger son arrived (Alex 4). The children were happy, well-behaved, and engaging. The food was truly delicious. Arturo taught us a slow Andean dance to some new music that was played and then we danced.

After a short rest to digest...off to the river. The river was high, about 25 feet wide, and the current was swifter than I expected. It has been raining (sometimes torrentially) in the mountains and the river carried silt to the valley. As I stood knee deep in water of an exquisite coolness, I looked up. There, across some miles were two gorgeous mountain peaks framed by palms in the foreground. A large white bird flew by making the picture even more startling. Arturo took some pictures (unfortunately without the bird) which I will post later. 

Yes, it was paradise and the day went by all too quickly. I'm not sure if the mythical Adam and Eve had a paradise like this; but I hope they didn't have the one diabolical intrusion: mosquitoes!